Friday, July 8, 2011

It's nice not knowing or caring what day it is anymore...

Daily Offering


 I was going to title this blog "Sri Lanka Day..." but I don't know what day number it is and I don't really feel the need to count back or look at a calendar.  The days pass in how many sessions, good waves, and banana milkshakes with ice cream I had.  (Oh, and the "local coffee" is so dark and thick it looks like motor oil and tastes chocolatey... so delicious!)  It doesn't get any better than this!




Lighthouse is my favorite wave here so far








Monsoon, our TukTuk Driver!
We have been trying to explore some other surf spots other than Arugam Bay. Yesterday Potuville Point proved small and mushy (although I managed to snag a super long wave it was mush).  There was an exciting naked man running around on the beach who then put on clothes and got into a wrestling match (where he dominated).  Good times!






Arugam Bay this morning

Today, Arugam Bay was FIRING! Sets with 10 foot faces coming through consistently.  I got some great shots of the guys. I surfed the inside today and it proved very frustrating. Very slow and mushy.  I need something in between the outside and the inside. Hoping to get back to the top of the point tomorrow for some sets that swing wide.






So far, trip of a lifetime is just that!  It's nice to get away from the people and situations that stress me out and get a fresh perspective on life.  One of my goals besides to improve my surfing this summer is to work on my self confidence and not letting what other people do or think affect me so much.  All my life I have struggled with this.  I am who I am, take it or leave it.  I will leave you with one of my favorite quotes that encourages me on the topic of being genuine:



"Re-examine all that you have been told and dismiss that which insults your soul" - Walt Whitman

~Peace and Waves~
Rachel

Monkey Business


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